Dubai is known for its skyscrapers, luxury shopping, and futuristic architecture but there is a traditional side to Dubai that is rich with Emirati traditions and can be experienced on a budget
Across the creek from Dubai’s dazzling lights and towering skyscrapers, I find myself in a different world, nestled in a tranquil, traditional Emirati-style house. While many flock to Dubai to scale the world’s tallest building, marvel at the heaviest gold ring or hunt for the viral TikTok-famous Dubai chocolate bar, there’s another side to this city.
A side steeped in Emirati traditions and surprisingly budget-friendly. Landing in 38C heat from a chilly UK morning is a jolt to the senses, especially in a city that buzzes with activity even at 2am. A drive across the creek to the historic Al Seef area offers a much-needed oasis of calm. We’re welcomed at the Al Seef Heritage Hotel by Hilton with refreshing pomegranate juice before being whisked away to our rooms in a golf buggy.
Our accommodation is a low, flat-roofed building with a veranda offering breathtaking views of the city skyline across the water. The next morning, I channel my inner Beyonce and visit the Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU) in one of Dubai’s oldest areas for a cultural and culinary feast.
Over a brunch of chicken biryani, rice, bread and small round donuts drenched in date syrup, guide Noora Al Marzooqi enlightens us about traditional hospitality in Dubai. Noora gives a detailed description of the old house’s layout and how the rooms were once used for living and entertaining guests. She shares that serving a small cup of coffee to guests is a sign of affection, suggesting that the hosts want their company for a longer duration.
No topic is off-limits, from clothing to traditions to headgear, as she patiently explains how local attire protects Emiratis from the intense heat while working outdoors.
Exploring the souks in Dubai’s oldest network located in the Al Khor area offers another captivating way to experience the city’s spirit. The narrow streets are lined with vendors selling everything from spices to gold, flowers, clothes, perfumes, and various types of food.
Ketki from Frying Pan Adventures refers to these areas as the city’s arteries, leading us to some of the most popular food outlets. These include the Al Shaiba Bakery, where Afghan bread is baked day and night despite the heat, offering one of the city’s tastiest and cheapest snacks. Fresh out of the oven, honey drips down my fingers as I bite into the cheese and honey bread, accompanied by a hot sweet tea.
The tour includes a brief boat ride across the creek to another section of souks, showcasing a Hindu influence with vibrant colours and fresh flowers.
Our journey ends at the Al Khayma Heritage Restaurant, where the owners take pride in their traditional decor and local favourites like a delectable lamb biryani served on a low table.
One of the most enchanting experiences of my journey was a Heritage Safari in a vintage Land Rover. Platinum Heritage, the company behind the adventure, ensured we were well-equipped, providing scarves to shield us from the sun as we ventured into the seemingly endless desert sands.
Our conservation guide, Amjad Mehmood, demonstrated his love for the landscape and wildlife, explaining conservation efforts and slowing down to allow us glimpses of oryx and elusive little sand lizards darting across the dunes. As sunset approached, we arrived at a falcon display before moving on to a beautifully arranged camp for a starlit feast.
After a camel ride, we enjoyed a musical performance and reclined on carpets and low sofas for a guided stargazing session with shisha pipes.
It’s impossible to visit Dubai without being awestruck by the features that have made the city globally renowned. Alongside the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building, stands the Frame, an audaciously large gold frame reaching towards the sky. It also hosts an exhibition detailing the city’s rapid transformation from the mid-20th century to the present day. A swift elevator ride up the 48-floor structure in just 75 seconds offers panoramic views across the city.
Yacht tours departing from Dubai Marina provide another perspective of the city, sailing past towering skyscrapers at various stages of construction.
However, a visit to Dubai isn’t complete without a trip to the renowned Palm Jumeirah, home to some of the world’s most luxurious hotels, and the nearby seven-star Burj Al Arab. Sure, you can splash out on a lavish holiday, but it’s also possible to have an authentic experience without emptying your wallet.
If you’re planning your trip, rooms at the Al Seef Heritage Hotel (hilton.com) start from 845 AED (£176), breakfast included. For more details, check out visitdubai.com.
