To describe Hanoi as “different” would be something of an understatement.
In mixology terms, imagine Bangkok, add in Hong Kong, mix them together and then add a couple of Red Bulls and you are getting there.
Located just 100 miles from the Chinese border, the capital city of Vietnam takes your breath away – and not just because of the high humidity. It is utterly frenetic and equally fascinating. A metropolis of around 12 million people with eight million scooters. Factor in the near-total absence of traffic lights or pelican crossings along with little or no road markings and you can see the potential problems.
Our guide had a variety of pieces of advice for us during our time in Hanoi but when it came to trying to cross the roads, one was sacrosanct: “Don’t take a step backwards!” No one waits for you so, in order to get to the other side, you step off the pavement and just go for it.
Walk steadily and confidently and the two-wheeled tsunami – along with the odd rickshaw – simply goes around you. By the time you take your next breath, you have arrived on the other side. It looks and sounds totally chaotic but it works, somehow. The scooter horns may be a constant cacophony but unlike here in the UK it does not indicate anger or rage, simply pointing out: “I’m here.”
Everywhere you go in Vietnam the image of the country’s founding father, Ho Chi Minh, is to be seen. He remains utterly revered by locals of all ages. His huge mausoleum is where the great leader’s body remains in state.
The building is on Ba Đình Square, the place where Ho Chi Minh announced his Declaration of Independence for Vietnam on Sunday, September 2, 1945, the same day that Japan signed the “Instrument of Surrender” aboard the USS Missouri.
Hanoi is a vibrant, buzzing city 24-hours-a-day. There is always something going on and most of it would appear to involve food. Steaming bowls of Pho – pronounced “Fuh” – are consumed on street corners everywhere. A fragrant broth of noodles, beef or fish and herbs – especially coriander – that make it a delicious and cheap must-try dish.
But if you want fine dining then the city, like several other places in the country can offer an array of Michelin-starred restaurants. Three of the seven are in Hanoi but do not be put off, these are places that unlike the rest of the world, will not burn a huge hole in your holiday budget. Another staple for the Vietnamese is coffee.
The country is the second-biggest exporter of coffee beans in the world behind Brazil. If you enjoy a daily espresso, a latte or flat white then you must try a Cà phê trung. Roughly translated, it means “egg coffee” and is like nothing else you will taste.
Its origins date back to the 1940s when the country found itself in the middle of a milk shortage. In order to get round this problem, a cafe owner experimented with replacing milk with egg yolk. Whipped with sugar, honey and condensed milk, it is then poured onto the coffee. The result resembles and tastes like a very sweet custard and is utterly delicious. Just over 700 miles south of Hanoi – and a two-hour flight away – is Ho Chi Minh City.
Ironically, the man whom it is named after never set foot in the place but when they were looking to rename Saigon in 1976, there was only ever one choice despite the inconvenient truth. Ho Chi Minh City is a much more modern place than Hanoi. It feels more western with towering skyscrapers and luxury designer shops along its wide, central boulevards. Here though, the chaos is organised.
Traffic lights and road markings exist and the feel is ever-so-slightly less manic. Our guide here pointed out that in a city of just under 10 million people there are 700 scooters for every 1,000 inhabitants. In contrast, there are just 30 cars to that number.
We stayed at the Liberty Central Saigon Citypoint Hotel with a stunning location overlooking the Saigon River. A two-minute walk from the city’s most fashionable street Dong Khoi and a similar time to the impressive Nguyen Hue Boulevard.
A fascinating morning was spent visiting one of the city’s “wet markets”. Despite its recent modernity, the vast majority of Vietnamese do not own a refrigerator and so, as a result, everyone shops daily, normally, first thing in the morning.
A sense-tingling experience, the hustle and bustle of the place can be overwhelming – but don’t forget to watch out for those scooters as riding through a narrow gap in between stalls seems quite the norm.
Ho Chi Minh City can itself offer two Michelin-starred restaurants but a recommendation would be an evening dinner cruise on the Saigon River. The two-and-a-half-hour trip gently takes you gliding past some of the city’s glittering skyline while enjoying a four-course meal and being serenaded by a professional band.
It was a perfect way to end our trip to this fascinating country and one which has so much more to offer.
Flight of fancy
“Turning left” on an aeroplane ahead of a long-haul flight is one of life’s pleasures. Personalised service, bags more room and of course, real crockery and glassware to help savour the delights of a la carte food and excellent wine. Another factor is also being able to stretch out on a flat-bed and grab some sleep.
All the above are obviously standard for Vietnam Airlines’ passengers lucky enough to be flying their business class on the long-laul Boeing 787 Dreamliner. But as well as incredibly attentive service from the cabin crew and a welcome air of calm and tranquillity, it offers a surprising and most gladly-received addition. When it comes to the time for you to catch 40 winks, a member of staff will actually make your bed for you.
Not content with unwrapping the duvet from its packaging and arranging the mattress cover, you even get a professional pillow shake before you are asked to return to your seat.
It is a lesson that some of the world’s more-established airlines should definitely take on board.
We flew from Heathrow’s Terminal 4 to Hanoi in just under 12 hours. Current unrest in Ukraine and increasing tensions over Israel and Gaza meant we had a slightly circuitous route to reach southeast Asia but it added little to the flying time.
The flight back to Heathrow from Ho Chi Minh City takes a little over 13 hours but after breakfast in the impressive Vietnam Airlines airport lounge, it did not seem too arduous a task.
An excellent whisky cocktail complete with raw ginger took the edge off a slightly sore head and, within a couple of hours, I was settling down into my freshly-made bed complete with extra-fluffed pillow. Bliss.
Book the holiday
- Vietnam Airlines flies from Heathrow to Hanoi four times a week; to Ho Chi Minh City three times. Economy returns start at £748; business £3,029. vietnamairlines.com.
- Rooms at the San Grand hotel in Hanoi start at around £58 a night. sangrand.sanhotelseries.com
