Northern France’s Opal Coast may be known for its wide sandy beaches, dunes and uninterrupted views of the Channel, but I didn’t count on being surrounded by sharks during my brush with its waters.
But that’s the surprising – and enthralling – treat awaiting visitors to Boulogne, a seaside town that’s just two hours away from Dover but which takes visitors straight to the heart of French culture and history. And with beautiful countryside, old buildings to explore, markets to wander through and delicious food, it’s also a great option for a family trip.
But back to those sea creatures. My husband Ed and I took our two girls, aged 11 and four, to Nausicaa the biggest aquarium in Europe (a family ticket for four is 89.20 euros/£75).
We were all awe-struck as we strolled through an 18m glass tunnel through a vast tank containing 10,000 cubic metres of water and 40 species of exotic fish. We then gazed through ceiling-height glass walls and in various viewing areas – the children were captivated by the sight of Sandbar sharks, jellyfish, lugubrious potato cod and the absolute star of the show, the ocean manta ray, which held us spellbound as it swooped through the water.
It’s not what I’ve ever pictured doing just half an hour by car from Calais, a place I associate more with booze cruises than a place to visit and explore for its own sake. Here’s what I learned on my family mini-break to Northern France and the surprising gems that make this a brilliant and convenient getaway…
Travel
Rather than face the stress, delays and deal with bored children on a flight, we went for the far more family-friendly option – a ferry journey from Dover to Calais. Irish Ferries’ Isle of Inishmore vessel offered plenty of amusements for parents and children alike, from the attendants handing colouring-in sheets to our youngest child to the arcade corner and soft play area, which kept the girls busy and got their wiggles out from the car journey.
Meanwhile, Ed and I relaxed in Club Class, which is only £18 to upgrade, but meant we could enjoy a very good beef stew with gastro-pub style chunky chips for lunch, followed by coffee and tea in peace and quiet.
Accommodation
After an hour and 40 minutes, we hopped back in the car, drove off the ferry at the port of Calais and enjoyed a smooth half-hour drive to our accommodation, a clean, compact apartment in Evancy, a canalside development in Boulogne, where a standard suite for four people with a double bedroom is from 187 euros/£158 a night.
We enjoyed views of the marina below and Boulogne’s lower town from our balcony, as well as the Basilica rising up over the fortified old town in the distance. The girls loved the bunk beds, while Ed and I attempted to squeeze into the rather slim double. Breakfasts of croissants, pain au chocolat, soft delectably chewy fresh bread, hot chocolate, jam, nutella and sugary cereals in small boxes were a child’s dream. Strong filter coffee ticked that box for the adults.
Getting stuck into the area
One of the highlights was a real-life Willy Wonka moment at the local chocolate factory, Chocolaterie de Beussent-Lachelle, which makes treats for Chocolaterie de Beussent’s 27 shops around northern France.
After a pretty 30-minute drive through the northern French countryside, we joined a 45-minute tour (3.50 euros per person, free for children under 10) hosted by teacher-turned-chocolatier Simon. He talked us through the various stages of fermentation and drying that the beans go through before they’re roasted and crushed. The final stage involves mixing them with sugar to make dark chocolate or with sugar and cocoa butter to create milk chocolate.
He even dipped a rabbit mould into a tub of melted chocolate to demonstrate how they’ll make tens of thousands of bunnies for Easter. Of course there were samples to taste, and we couldn’t leave without snapping up a ganache or two as a – short-lived – souvenir.
While the lower town of Boulogne has restaurants, bars, shops and a theatre and fromageries on every corner, a 15-minute walk up the hill takes you to the fortified village that comprises the Old Town. It’s a picture-perfect historic spot of cobbled streets, elegant townhouses and historic buildings but the centrepiece is the Basilica of Notre Dame with its soaring 101 metre dome.
The church was rebuilt in the 19th century after the original structure, dating back to the Middle Ages, was destroyed in the French Revolution. And to our surprise, the children were fascinated by the cavernous space packed with statues, frescos and an altar made with 147 different kinds of marble precious metals.
There was lots to see and even something to touch – a brass hand, containing a piece of wood from a holy statue of the Virgin Mary. The highlight, however, was the Medieval crypt adult tickets: 6 euros/£5 and children’s 3 euros/£2.50), said to be the longest in Europe.
This subterranean museum is filled with tombs, gold chalices and other jewelled items from the church’s history. And with 4,000 square metres of frescos adorning the walls, original 11th century Romanesque pillars, the chill in the air and echo of feet on stone, it’s brilliantly atmospheric (or ‘creepy’, said our 11-year-old). The children enjoyed letting themselves get freaked out by it, while Ed and I soaked up the history.
Enjoying local cuisine
Of course, another way to freak out your children is to tuck into classic French cuisine. And Cafe Les Sports in nearby Le Touquet – an elegant seaside town 40 minutes’ drive west of Boulogne, didn’t disappoint. A quintessentially Gallic bistro with red banquettes, black and white tiled floor and art nouveau frieze around the walls, it had the added theatre of Crepes Suzette and banane flambees bursting into flames just feet from our table.
As Ed got stuck into his snails and I scooped out of the middle of my marrowbone, we were treated to a chorus of “yuk” and “ewww, disgusting” from the girls who were much happier with their burgers, French fries and Nutella crepes for dessert. We adults indulged in steak in a rich pepper sauce, braised endive and steak tartare before those aforementioned indulgently boozy, flambeed desserts, before rolling out onto the streets of the town for a post-prandial stroll.
On our last day, as we drove back to Calais (via the Leclerc hypermarche to explore the vast wine and beer section) we enjoyed a car picnic of bread and cheese, overlooking the beach at nearby Wissant. A broad stretch of smooth sand, extending into dunes, Wissant is so windy it’s a favourite kite-surfing spot and we had a bracing walk that almost, literally, swept us off our feet. We were soon back in Calais gliding back over the Channel, and already planning our next trip to Northern France.
BOOK IT
Sailings on the Dover to Calais route start from £89 (covers a car and family / friends of up to 9) and are bookable via irishferries.com
Club Class lounge access starts from £18 and includes:
-
Exclusive lounge bar
-
Free WiFi
-
Complimentary soft drinks and snacks
-
Complimentary wines
-
10% off selected lines in our shop, excluding Chanel, Apple and tobacco.
-
A complimentary buffet hot and cold meal options are included in the Club Class lounge for Dover Calais.
