“Man, I really like Vegas,” Elvis once remarked about the Nevada retreat he considered his second home. And after a whirlwind 72-hour adventure in “Sin City”, I’m inclined to agree with the King.
Las Vegas is a sensory overload, shining bright with neon lights and promising a glitzy escapade. The iconic Las Vegas Strip pulses at the core of this desert haven, boasting some of the most renowned hotels and casinos. It’s a place where extravagance knows no bounds; you can marvel at a 541ft replica Eiffel Tower at the Paris Las Vegas Hotel, watch gondolas sail along the Venetian’s “Grand Canal”, or gaze up at the Luxor’s towering 30-storey pyramid.
It’s an overwhelming spectacle, but it’s one I absolutely adore. Vegas might be famous for its gambling and I must confess, this penny-pincher didn’t drop a single coin in the slots but it’s equally famed for hosting star-studded shows. Celine Dion, Britney Spears, and Adele have all had residencies here.
So, embracing the quintessential Vegas experience, we make our way to the iconic Caesars Palace to see Absinthe, described as a “fantastical blend of carnival and spectacle, featuring wild, outlandish acts on an intimate circular stage where the audience is as close to the action as you can possibly get”. Critics have called it “as provocative as it is unforgettable”, and they’re spot on.
The shindig kicks off with cocktails and nibbles at the Pier 17 Yacht Club speakeasy nestled in the hotel’s enchanting Green Fairy Garden. Yet, as we settle into the tent, a hushed voice tells me, “I wouldn’t want to be sat there”. Tucked away at the end, just three rows from the action, my pulse races with anticipation.
Absinthe is a no-holds-barred, strictly adult cabaret that serves up a heady mix of modern circus, comedy, and burlesque it’s unapologetically raunchy, riotous, and risque. I’m perched on the brink of my seat throughout, captivated by the performers’ breathtaking stunts and partly petrified of being singled out by The Gazillionaire, the merciless host.
So when he throws out the question: “Are you a throuple? ” my heart does cartwheels, and I’m convinced he’s speaking directly to me. To my relief, his probing is directed at three guys behind us who, to be honest, might well be.
Post-show, we decompress with a leisurely jaunt down The Strip, marvelling at the Bellagio Fountains’ spectacular free display of water choreography, synced to music and light, shooting jets as high as 460ft against the night canvas it’s one of those quintessential Vegas “wow” experiences.
Adjacent to the grandeur of the Bellagio is The Cosmopolitan, where, hidden in a corner of this opulent resort, you’ll find a bona fide old-school barber shop. Beyond an “unassuming janitor door”, a secret prohibition-era bar awaits, its dim lighting setting the mood, plush sofas inviting relaxation, and a whisky selection that’s second to none. It’s karaoke night, the drinks are flowing and it’s well past my usual bedtime. But that’s Vegas for you: the night is always young and there’s no telling where or when it will end.
The Virgin Hotel Las Vegas
Even the most seasoned party-goers need to recharge their batteries occasionally, which makes staying slightly off Strip a wise choice. Virgin Hotels Las Vegas, which opened its doors in March 2021, is a 30-minute stroll from the heart of the action or a quick Uber ride away in the blistering 40C heat. My king-sized chamber suite in the resort’s Ruby Tower is a spacious, chic and air-conditioned sanctuary with a bathtub big enough for two, a dedicated lounge, and a view over the desert pool oasis.
The 1,500-room hotel is enormous, boasting a 60,000sq ft casino, a branch of upscale Japanese favourite Nobu, a theatre with a capacity of 4,600, and a Studio 54-inspired social lounge and bar named The Shag Room. But for me, the real highlight is the expansive pool complex it’s the ideal spot to relax before getting dolled up for another night on the town.
We do it in style by renting waterside cabanas where the Veuve Clicquot cools gently in the fridge under the relentless sun.
Life beyond the Strip
Just a 20-minute drive west of the city transports you to a seemingly different world. Red Rock Canyon is a naturally stunning, enchanting labyrinth of sandstone cliffs that date back 190 million years and served as the backdrop for many early Westerns.
We embarked on a Pink Jeep Tour, navigating the 13-mile scenic route through the conservation park. The vibrant red and orange hues of the oxidised rocks left us in awe, and the vast emptiness was a welcome respite.
Our knowledgeable driver made regular stops, allowing us to explore the terrain, scale cliff faces, and discover hidden gems. We spotted desert tortoises at the visitor centre, marvelled at 800 year old historical wall art, and posed beside a majestic Joshua tree although the elusive mountain goats remained out of sight.
This unexpected adventure proved to be a highlight of our holiday, offering a refreshing escape from the city’s hustle and bustle.
Las Vegas, it turns out, is full of surprises. We stumbled upon a museum dedicated to the punk rock movement, led by our passionate guide, Morat a ‘true’ London-born punk and frontman of the Soldiers of Destruction.
As a close friend of the late Lemmy from Motorhead, Morat brought the collection to life. The Punk Rock Museum boasts an impressive array of artefacts, including the lyrics to London Calling and “Joe Strummer’s San Francisco Stash”. We even got to play actual guitars, feeling like rockstars for a moment.
This experience reminded us to venture off the beaten path and explore the city’s lesser-known areas. The Arts District, also known as 18b, is a hidden gem located southwest of downtown Vegas.
This vibrant neighbourhood is a treasure trove of galleries, vintage stores, and independent bars, all set against a backdrop of art-adorned streets. We dined at the celebrated Esther’s Kitchen, a standout on our trip and the passion project of local culinary star James Trees.
While Las Vegas’ Strip is peppered with upscale celeb-run joints, here’s a place that prizes neighbourhood charm and plates up genuine Italian fare crafted from fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Buzzing with activity on a Monday afternoon, the restaurant was alive with the magic of pizza chefs at work and the happy din of conversation filling its open-plan space.
Named in honour of James’ much-adored great-aunt who sparked his cooking ambitions, the eatery’s offerings echo the dishes he enjoyed in his youth. The homemade sourdough lathered in an anchovy butter blend, accented with garlic and capers, was out of this world, setting the stage for a procession of extraordinary eats.
Standout selections included the spicy Diavolo pizza with chorizo and the zucca alla zozzona, an unforgettable union of sausage and pecorino.
Would I hit up Vegas again? Without skipping a beat. It’s a draining yet exhilarating experience, thoroughly shaking you free from your usual routines. And just as they say, “Everyone needs a little Las Vegas in their life! “.
Virgin’s Big Birthday
My Vegas trip coincides with the much-anticipated return of direct Virgin flights from Manchester and the airline’s 40th birthday bash.
It’s hard to imagine transatlantic travel without Virgin and speaking at the company’s Las Vegas hotel, founder Sir Richard Branson is in a reflective mood.
He recalls the first flight from Gatwick to Newark, in New York, on a leased Boeing 747-200, and the trials and tribulations of launching an airline in a crowded and competitive market.
Later, at a party at Virgin Hotels Las Vegas, Sir Richard remembers how, in 1990, the airline was central to a Baghdad rescue mission flying 40 sick and injured hostages out of Iraq.
Malcolm King-MacKinnon, a volunteer crew member on board that flight, and wife Jacqui are on the guest list. The couple, who live in Heswall, Wirral, both still work for Virgin having met in a staff car park back 1988.
After spotting Jacqui in the iconic red uniform, Malcolm offered to help with her luggage and the rest is history. Married with two daughters, they renew their vows at the famous Little White Wedding Chapel, which Sir Richard gatecrashes, taking over from the Elvis impersonator to officiate the ceremony.
The party is in full swing, the guests made up of the Virgin team, crew, frequent flyers, Vegas dignitaries and the press. Sir Richard jumps into the pool fully clothed and everyone follows. It’s going to be a night to remember.
Book the holiday
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Virgin Atlantic Holidays offers three nights in Las Vegas with Virgin Atlantic flights from Heathrow and accommodation at Virgin Hotels Las Vegas from £787pp, departing on November 24. Manchester flights on May 20 from £933pp. virginholidays.co.uk
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Flight-only from Heathrow starts at £587 return, £711 from Manchester. virginatlantic.com
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More info at visitlasvegas.com
