As summer fades into a distant memory, there are still European destinations that offer warmth and hospitality. One such place is Bergamo in Northern Italy, where even in October, the temperature remains a pleasant 17C.
Bergamo may not ring a bell for many, as it often gets overshadowed by its more famous neighbours like Milan, which is approximately 60km away, and the renowned Italian Lakes: Lake Garda, Lake Maggiore and of course, Lake Como, where George Clooney famously owns a holiday home.
Despite being less popular than other Northern Italian regions, Bergamo has plenty to offer, as I found out when I decided to book the cheapest flights from Edinburgh Airport to “Anywhere”.
The Skyscanner website allows you to gamble on an unknown destination by inputting your departure airport and a month of the year, then selecting “Anywhere” – it will then locate the most affordable flights from that airport for that month.
I was looking to travel in September, and upon searching for options, Skyscanner revealed that the most economical overseas destination accessible from Edinburgh that month was a place called “Milan Bergamo Airport,” with a return ticket costing just £40 on Ryanair, reports the Daily Record.
The flight duration from Edinburgh is slightly over two hours.
While many travellers use the airport as a gateway to Italy’s fashion capital, Milan, it’s actually located in the historic city of Bergamo – a place where prices are significantly lower and accommodation is much more affordable. So much so, that tour guides often refer to it as “Italy’s best-kept secret”.
Bergamo is divided into two parts: the modern lower city and the ancient Citta Alta neighbourhood, which dates back to around 500BC. The latter is perched on a series of hills and encircled by enormous, ancient Venetian defensive walls, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding area.
From afar, la Citta Alta appears almost like a backdrop for a fantasy series or video game, with its concentric circles of historic buildings. It wouldn’t be surprising to spot a cloaked assassin darting from rooftop to rooftop, evading Roman soldiers.
My partner and I secured an Airbnb just a five-minute stroll from Citta Alta, in a transformed 16th-century palazzo (a former merchant’s house) for a mere £60 per night, although rates do fluctuate depending on the season. It was clean, charming, unique, tranquil, and conveniently close to some truly incredible sights and activities.
A stroll along the Venetian walls (Mura Venete) is touted as one of the must-do experiences in Bergamo, and it’s easy to see why once you embark on it. The walls are simply stunning, adorned with parks and trees, and offer spectacular views over the modern city and the Lombardy plains stretching out beyond.
We lounged a lot in the breathtaking Piazza Vecchia at the centre of the old town, where anyone can grab a free table, soaking up the ambience with delectable coffees and sandwiches from the local deli Macelleria Fracassetti on Via Gombito.
Nearby lies the awe-inspiring Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, an absolute must-see. Its lavish decorations are astonishing every inch is adorned with paintings, tapestries, and elaborate gold leaf details.
Entry costs €5 per adult, but it promises to be an unforgettable experience. When your feet start to protest, why not take a leisurely ride on the picturesque funicular railway?
For only a few euros, it whisks you up to the commanding Castello di San Vigilio, the pinnacle point of the city.
The vistas from the Venetian walls are impressive, but those from San Vigilio are simply out of this world, offering panoramic views of the Alps and quaint neighbouring villages. The grand castle is maintained by the local council and welcomes visitors free of charge.
Lastly, a visit to Baretto, a Michelin-starred yet surprisingly affordable cafe located next to the funicular station, is the perfect way to round off the trip. There, for a mere €7, you can savour “stuzzichino” (a tasty appetiser) and a glass of prosecco al fresco, all while reveling in the stunning surroundings.
Another budget-friendly yet surprisingly posh dining spot is Circolino Citta Alta, a charming restaurant nestled in a historic building with a lovely terrace and a traditional Italian menu. They offer a fixed-price lunch deal where you can enjoy a two-course meal complete with wine, bread, water and coffee for just €15 per person.
You should definitely give the casoncelli alla bergamasca a try – it’s a meat and vegetable ravioli dish served with butter, sage, Parmesan and crispy bacon. It’s a local speciality.
While Bergamo is undeniably beautiful, it is quite petite, so to expand our adventure we decided to take a day trip to the nearby town of Lecco, located on the shores of the celebrity-favourite Lake Como.
If you’ve been hit by Scotrail fares recently, you might want to look away now, because the hour-long train journey from Bergamo to Lecco cost us just €4 per person. Our minds were absolutely blown.
Lecco is delightful and well worth a visit. On the day we visited (Sunday), they had a street food market on the lake shore offering a vast array of delicious local and international dishes, including a Scottish food stall!
We certainly didn’t expect to find tinned haggis and Irn Bru on the shores of a renowned Northern Italian lake, that’s for sure.
If you fancy a sail on Lake Como, you don’t have to splurge on hiring a private boat. There’s a ferry service that links Lecco to other picturesque towns on the lake, ending at the Instagram influencer favourite spot, Bellagio.
The views you’ll encounter during the journey are truly awe-inspiring, but keep in mind that it takes over an hour to reach Bellagio, making it a fairly lengthy round trip.
It’s worth mentioning that not everyone you come across will speak English, especially in Bergamo which isn’t as frequented by tourists as other areas in the region.
My 30-day Italian learning stint on Duolingo only equipped me with phrases like “I like to go swimming with my neighbour”, which wasn’t particularly helpful. However, a mix of gesturing and using Google Translate usually cleared up any confusion.
All the locals we encountered were incredibly welcoming, particularly Adriano, who we met in a pub. Despite being quite intoxicated and not speaking much English, he wanted me to relay this message: “Tutti in Scozia dovrebbero venire a Bergamo. Adoriamo gli scozzesi qui! “.
“Everyone in Scotland should come to Bergamo. We love Scottish people here!”.
