EXCLUSIVE: We discovered authentic cuisine and hands-on culinary experiences on a foodie-focused trip to the vibrant Moroccan city of Fez – here’s what to do and where to stay
Marrakech may be one of Morocco’s go-to travel hotspots, but Fez is quietly stepping into the spotlight as one of the country’s most compelling destinations. This ancient city, often considered the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco, offers all the vibrancy of Marrakech but, we think, with a more authentic charm and an atmosphere as rich as its history.
Where to stay in Fez
From its lofty jewel-toned stained glass ceilings to its vibrant tiles, Palais Amani is filled with elegant architecture and decor, making it a beautiful place to call home during your stay in Fez.
Dating back in parts to the 1600s, this boutique hotel was once an abandoned grand home and has since been restored to the chic palace that now stands. Traditional touches are apparent the moment you check in, from Moroccan mint tea served in the courtyard to the straight-from-the-souk slippers waiting for you by your bed. The soothing sounds from the riad’s fountain teamed with birdsong from the surrounding citrus trees makes for a relaxing base during your visit to the bustling city and a perfect romantic getaway.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in Eden, the dining area set within the riad’s citrus grove. Breakfast is a feast, with fresh coffee, juice, fruit and yoghurt as well as mezze platters of jam, honey, olives, bread and pancakes. At night, lit by candlelight, we enjoyed a three-course Moroccan tapas consisting of tagines, shredded chicken in a pastry parcel dusted with powdered sugar (don’t knock it until you try it!) and delectable chocolate mousse. End the night with a cocktail at the bar and head up to the roof terrace to enjoy a bird’s eye view of the city.
The Fez Cooking School
Palais Amani is also home to the Fez Cooking School, a cooking workshop that guests can participate in for a hands-on experience in the art of Moroccan cuisine.
The experience starts with a tour around the souk’s winding lanes with a hotel guide and your cooking school chef. Here, you’ll find many culinary delights and have the opportunity to taste traditional delicacies and chat to market sellers, giving you the true experience of a local.
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Palais Amani is a boutique hotel in the centre of Fez that dates back to the 1600s, and has since been restored to the chic palace that now stands. It’s also home to the Fez Cooking School.
Deep inside the maze of the souk, down a dark alley and up a steep staircase, our guide led us to a hidden secret spot, a tiny tea room that could only fit a handful of people. There we met Sidi Abdullah, or The Tea Man as he’s known to locals. Sidi has been running this tea shop since 1969 and his mint tea has earned him fame thanks to its authenticity – and flavour.
Using produce sourced from local vendors delivered fresh every morning, Sidi creates his special concoction of dried green tea, hot water and sugar in a single-serving copper pot over heat. This delicious sweet tea teamed with the authentic setting makes for an experience not to be forgotten.
The cooking class
Our thirst quenched after sampling Sidi’s tea, we headed back into the heart of the souk to shop for ingredients for our cooking class. With chicken tagine on the menu, we bought spices, vegetables and meat. Back on the riad rooftop, taking in the breathtaking views over the medina, we donned our chef’s aprons and iconic red tasselled fez hats and got to work. With the guidance of our chef, we prepared our true Moroccan recipe, learning about the culture along the way, before enjoying our meal with our classmates in the hotel’s restaurant.
As a parting gift, we were given spices to take back with us to recreate our tagine at home and give us a lasting memory of the city.
The hammam at Palais Amani
Don’t leave without trying Palais Amani’s traditional hammam (which means ‘hot water’ in Arabic and originates from Roman thermal baths). An area of the hotel is dedicated to this ritual, with a welcoming lobby, a hot room and a candle-lit scrub room.
Using traditional products including a white clay hair mask, natural rose water and black soap, prepare for a spa like no other. Starting with a relaxing foot scrub and hair mask, we were then led into the hot room for soap application and a body scrub. Be warned – this is quite vigorous, so prepare to shed your top layer of skin! A body mask and wrap is then followed by a gentle shampoo and body rinse. We emerged feeling reborn, with supple, soft skin and shiny hair.
How much does it cost to stay at Palais Amani?
Rooms at Palais Amani start from approximately £150 per night for bed and breakfast.
