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Nestled in the heart of Devon, is a historic market town like no other — which at Christmas comes alive with a market and special festivities that beat all other Christmas markets I have been to yet
The gentle pitter-patter of rain splashes onto the beige cobble stones of the street running up the centre of the town, only visible between the quaint market stalls that line the entire length of the high street.
A woman, who I see every year, stands in a long black dress with a cart full of mistletoe next to her. As she rings a bell and shouts “Mistletoe, come and get your mistletoe”, visitors are transported back in time to the days of bustling markets with criers at each stall. Nearby are also stalls with warm, steamy aromas spiralling upwards into the sky.
Unlike Winter Wonderland or your big city Christmas markets, one historic market town in the southwest boasts a Christmas market full of unique independent businesses selling gifts and treats, that are actually different to the ones found at most city markets.
Totnes highstreet in Devon, where the market takes place, is on a sloping hill — but don’t be deterred as the entire length of the town is full of festivities for its Christmas market. Despite only taking place three times throughout December, the market is host to different events and activities including a lantern parade, carol singing and festive-themed stilt walkers.
There will be over 70 artisan market stalls and street food vendors located throughout the town, including Antique and Vintage Prints, Devon Cove Vodka, Good Game Charcuterie which sells award-winning charcuterie using locally sourced meats and Dartmoor Chili Farm.
New for the market this year is the Food court in Civic Car Park, which will host even more food vendors with delights including hog roast, turkey burgers and Caribbean curry.
In general, Totnes is a fantastic all-year-round destination to visit, as the town centre is lined with independent shops and eateries, plenty of quaint bookstores, bargain-filled charity shops and a motte-and-bailey castles dating back to 900 years ago. In the summer, visitors often enjoy walks alongside the River Dart at the bottom of the high street, and in the winter, events such as Tar Barrels and the cosy coffee shops welcome people from far and wide.
Despite being small in size, hours can easily be spent exploring the high street alone. From visiting over the years, as I was fortunate enough to grow up close to the town, I have developed some firm favourites.
One of the newer residents in the town can be found at the top of the high street, as it curves around. Don’t be fooled to think the high street stops at the top of the hill — follow the bend to find even more independent businesses to explore. This is where you will find The Hairy Barista. This cosy terracotta-coloured coffee shop serves drinks of a coffee lover’s dream — make sure to grab one of their superfood lattes, like Butterfly Pea and Maca Elixir or Peruvian Ceremonial Cacao.
Just a little down from The Hairy Barista is another resident that isn’t too old in Totnes — Stag and Seer. I stumbled upon this spiritual gem with my family last Christmas, and since have been itching to go back. We had finished wandering the market stalls and were just enjoying the festive atmosphere when we were hit with a sweet and smoky smell. Following our noses, we ended up in Stag and Seer, which primarily sells loose incense with a focus on organic, homegrown or ethically foraged botanicals. This ethereal business sells scents ideal for a cosy night in, as the rain lashes on your window and your fire crackles by your feet.
For those who inevitably are doing last-minute Christmas shopping, look no further than Penelopetom. This shop sells unique and thoughtful gifts, which are perfect for showing someone how much you care. Honestly, you’ll head in not knowing what to get and come out with more gifts than you actually needed to find.
If you fancy a tipple, you can either head to one of the stalls selling mulled cider or wine or head into one of the many pubs, bars and restaurants in the town. The Totnes Brewing Company is a great stop, near the castle, that has a selection of craft beers and is also dog-friendly. There is also Rumour Kitchen and Bar, which serves comforting meals made from scratch and has a buzzing atmosphere.
Make sure to also head into Ben’s Farm Shop, and ask if they have any cheese twists — these are especially tasty, and even better when they are fresh out of the oven.
