“Hey, you better look after your eyes, they gonna see so many things, they’re going to hurt,” my Cuban-born driver Rafael cautions as we zip from Miami International Airport to the buzzing Wynwood district. Known for its vibrant graffiti and street art, quirky independent boutiques, and an ever-expanding array of eateries, Wynwood has transformed into a must-visit spot in Florida’s sun-drenched city.
Rafael shares that back in the ’90s, this low-rise neighbourhood was a no-go zone dominated by drug dealers, but today it’s teeming with life, even if the traffic is a bit of a nightmare due to its popularity.
He leaves me at the Moxy Miami Wynwood, a fresh addition to the hotel scene that captures the area’s dynamic spirit. The entrance dazzles with a riot of colours leading to a lift that whisks guests to a reception-cum-bar, complete with a lounge and games room where foosball, Jenga, and a giant shuffleboard table await to amuse visitors.
The playful theme extends to my room, where graffiti-inspired designs adorn the bathroom door, and quirky elements like a grey-and-orange vintage phone add character. As I set off on a tour with Wynwood Buggies to delve into the local street art scene, my guide and self-styled “philosopher” Marco barely drives a few metres in our six-seater golf cart before halting to showcase a towering mural splashed across a building’s facade.
The artwork, created by The Amazing Ske, portrays a woman swimming with sharks, and it’s the same shocked-looking lady you’ll find in the hotel elevator. Marco enlightened us about the transformation of the neighbourhood that’s measured out to be seven by nine streets, revealing the change kicked off back in 2009 when developers spotted the untapped potential.
They saw beyond the graffiti-splattered walls, taken by the strategic proximity to the airport, Downtown, and Miami Beach.
“Sure, there was the gangs and Pablo Escobar controlling kilos of cocaine,” he narrates. “At the same time there were a lot of kids in the streets and they wanted to experience life in a way they could have fun and they started writing on the walls, like every kid writes on the walls of its own room, and this is what is known today as graffiti.”
Our tour wrapped up at Wynwood Walls, a preserved space holding some of the quarter’s iconic works, which also stands at the forefront of artistry with its augmented reality feature – animating paintings on your mobile screen. The following evening, I decided to delve into the complete opposite end of the cultural spectrum.
I found myself at the Ziff Ballet Opera House within the massive Adrienne Arsht Center, one of America’s grandest performing arts venues, eagerly awaiting the Miami City Ballet’s rendition of George Balanchine’s “A Midsummer Night’s Dream.”
The resident troupe has ingeniously reimagined the story, transporting it from Shakespeare’s Athenian woodland to Florida’s seascape, with seahorses replacing fairies and Bottom donning a manatee’s head instead of a donkey’s. Yet, it’s the mesmerising ballet of dancers gliding on pointe that leaves me spellbound, their strength and finesse never ceasing to amaze.
The following day, I switch accommodations to citizenM South Beach, a mere 20-minute stroll from Miami’s iconic sandy beach. It exudes a similar vibrant and whimsical charm as the Moxy, but with the added perks of a rooftop pool and a full breakfast bar.
Stepping into my room feels like entering a futuristic pod, where everything from blinds, TV, air conditioning, to even the lighting hues are controlled by a bedside iPad.
A brief walk through the Lincoln Road shopping district, adorned with Art Deco buildings including the repurposed Lincoln Theatre – now an H&M outlet, leads me to the New World Center. This Frank Gehry-designed concert hall, which also houses the New World Symphony (orchestra), is an architectural masterpiece in its own right since its inauguration in 2011.
As I stand in the expansive lobby, my gaze follows the fluid lines of staircases and balconies intertwining up to the ceiling.
I’m here to witness a double-bill opera performance featuring Viktor Ullmann’s The Kaiser Of Atlantis with libretto by Peter Kien and Kurt Weill’s The Seven Deadly Sins with libretto by Bertolt Brecht.
Ullmann’s dystopian tale is delivered with a blend of humour and humanity, utilising puppets manipulated by the cast and projected onto large screens. The contemporary presentation style is deliberate, as Marci Falvey, the New World Symphony’s director of communications, explains that the orchestra aims to attract new audiences to classical music and opera.
This includes projecting live productions onto a 7,000 square foot external wall equipped with state-of-the-art speakers, allowing the public to bring their camping chairs and enjoy the shows for free without a ticket.
This ethos of art being accessible to everyone resonates with me as I explore the Design District the following day. This shopping area, home to luxury brands from Gucci to Tiffany’s, features shop fronts designed to be as visually striking and extravagant as the products they sell.
The pedestrianised district is dotted with artworks, including a bus stop inhabited solely by a skeleton who has evidently been waiting for his bus for too long. My next destination is Superblue, one of Miami’s many modern and contemporary art museums known for its interactive exhibits. It uses video and computer installations to make art enjoyable and accessible to all ages.
I enter a large, dimly lit hall for the teamLab installation, which features projections of water cascading down the walls and flowers sprouting up, which visitors can influence by touching the walls and ceilings.
Rafael Lozano-Hemmer’s upcoming exhibition is set to dazzle with thousands of lightbulbs dangling from the ceiling, each one ready to pulse in time with your heartbeat. I had a go and my own heart rhythm boomed throughout the space until a lively toddler took over, sending the tempo and lights into a frenetic dance.
The grand finale of my visit was Es Devlin’s mirror maze, a labyrinth of endless reflections that left me as giddy and wide-eyed as the kids darting around, their giggles echoing off the glass.
My Miami adventure concluded with a taste of Cuba, courtesy of my guide Mirka from Miami Culinary Tours. She led me through Little Havana’s genuine food spots, from empanadas – “dough is happiness sealed” – to the local peanut vendor offering “$1 for happiness”.
Mirka also highlighted the domino park, where seasoned players gather, bringing a slice of Cuba to Miami, albeit with strict rules prohibiting firearms, spitting, shouting, or shirtless gaming.
Leaving for the airport, my belly was stuffed with Cuban delicacies, and I was brimming with the realization that in Miami, culture and art spill exuberantly onto the streets, ripe for discovery.
Book it
Consider staying at citizenM Miami South Beach (citizenm.com), with double rooms starting at $125/£100 per night, room only. Or try Moxy Winwood (marriott.com), where prices begin at $199/£159 per night, also room only.
For more information about the destination, head over to MiamiandMiamiBeach.com.
