There’s magic to be found in watching any city wake up and come alive for the day, but if you are willing to start sightseeing at an ungodly hour in Bangkok, a truly sacred experience awaits.
By day, and much of the night, a bustling hub throngs with people and traffic among food stalls, tourists, street hawkers and tuk-tuks. Yet there’s an hour or so at dawn when peace descends over the street maze of Thailand’s capital.
It’s the hour when Buddhist monks, barefoot in their saffron robes, meander through deserted markets and temple gardens collecting alms in exchange for prayers in a centuries-old tradition.
I’d been to Bangkok twice but never witnessed this secret, early morning life before, so I was a little reluctant when our hotel concierge urged us to get up at 5am to experience the ancient ritual of almsgiving for ourselves on the first day of our recent city break.
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We took his advice to go to Tha Tien ferry port on the Chao Phraya river in time for sunrise, and it was well worth the wrench from the cloud-like bed at the luxurious 137 Pillars Suites & Residences where we spent the first two nights of our trip.
Before rush hour, a short taxi ride for 100 baht (around £2) took us from Sukhumvit Road, where the hotel is located, to the east bank in time to watch an orange sea of monks from the temple disembark from an arriving boat. Wat Arun, or “Temple of the Dawn”, sits directly opposite Tha Tien on the west bank of the river.
The monks who live, study and pray there make the short trip each morning, with silver bowls slung over their shoulders on hand-woven straps, to collect food in return for blessings. The public ferry is free for these most holy of men, but still less than 50p for tourists wanting to join them on the return crossing. Back at Wat Arun, the novice monks chant mesmeric prayers as the birds and metal gongs are gradually drowned out by the roar of scooters and rush-hour traffic.
Tourists can enter the Wat Arun compound from 8am for 50 baht (about £1) and it’s well worth going there early to enjoy the beautiful 17th-century pagodas and shrines in peace before crowds of tourists arrive. There is no shortage of beautiful, historic and sacred sites to visit along the river, including Wat Pho – home of the famous enormous reclining Buddha – and of course the Grand Palace, the royal residence.
It’s easy to book a day or half-day tour online but it’s just as cheap to make your way around by tuk-tuk or on foot if you prefer to do things at your own pace. Unfortunately, during our visit, the Grand Palace was closed to visitors because it was a national holiday.
Thankfully, I’d been lucky enough to visit before but I would say the palace is a must for any first-time pilgrims to the city. It’s impossible to describe the scale and opulence of the gold and emerald clad buildings and beautiful temples and statues inside its walls – definitely not to be missed.
Back to the modern luxury of our hotel for the afternoon; 137 Pillars has a stunning rooftop pool overlooking the city skyline, which was the perfect place to chill out with a drink before getting ready for dinner in our beautiful bedroom, which came with the biggest marble bath I’ve ever seen and its own cocktail-making station.
During our two-night stay at 137 we had two very different dining experiences. The first night we ventured out to the nearby Soi 38, a long alley in Sukhumvit famous for its street food. Lined with smoking woks and charcoal grills, locals and tourists buy specialities like crab cakes, prawn rolls, deep-fried pork and noodles. The second night, after a lazy afternoon cruising down the Chao Praya on an old rice barge (there are plenty departing from the Asiatique pier on the riverside for as little as 600 baht (£12)), we ate at Nimitr, the fine-dining restaurant at 137.
A total contrast to the rustic fare and plastic cutlery of Soi 38’s offerings, Nimitr has a mouthwatering menu of Asian-European fusion dishes inspired by traditional Thai ingredients. Think oysters with a hot chilli vinegar, lamb shank massaman and lemongrass and lime creme brulee.
On our third day we headed for the famous floating market of Damnoen Saduak. Bangkok’s floating markets operate on waterways known as “khlongs” where traders sell their wares from small wooden paddle boats. You can either hire a paddle boat and ride up and down the khlongs for the full experience or wait on the banks for the traders to come to you. I would recommend going on an organised trip as bartering for a boat can be stressful and pricey if you’re not sure what you’re doing.
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In the afternoon we went to a much more modern and luxurious shopping experience at Icon Siam. The impressive mall, which opened in 2018, wasn’t there the last time I visited Bangkok so I was really impressed by the sleek, high-end range of shops and restaurants. It even has a replica floating market in the mall on a man-made indoor waterway that runs through the main concourse.
For our final night we stayed in the Villa Deva hotel. Unlike the super-modern, towering 137 Pillars, Deva is a more traditional, low-rise, leafy enclave built around a central pool. Our room had its own swim-up terrace which was a suntrap and perfect for enjoying a few local beers.
For our last night we ate at the on-site Vela Bhirom restaurant, and had a Thai feast of satay skewers of chicken and pork served over charcoal embers, followed by fiery green prawn curry and sticky rice and sweet and slippery pad Thai noodles.
Our three night city-break was perfect for a return visit, before we flew on to Bali. I would recommend at least four or five days in Bangkok if you haven’t been before in order to really soak up the culture and sights. We made the 13-hour flight from London with Thai Airways. Onward domestic flights are frequent and reasonably priced.
They call Thailand “The Land Of Smiles” and I can see why. I know that every time I go, I leave with a big smile on my face and a yearning to go back.
Book the holiday
Direct flights from London to Bangkok, Thailand, are available with British Airways and Thai Airways.
Rooms at the 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok hotel start at around £82 a night.
Rooms at the Villa Deva Resort & Hotel Bangkok start at around £125 a night.
More info at tourismthailand.org
